It goes remembered as a grate explorer ,
a meticulous organizer, attentive to the safety of the group , sensitive
to the achievement of the goal and attentive to the human... relations
(stroke from the book of Rita
Ajmone Cat : Guido Monzino and the his 21 shippings.
Guido Monzino: 5-7th May 1973, Italian shipping to the Everest.
1973-2003 : 30° Anniversary
Guido Monzino has not open new roads, climbed new peaks
or reached unexplored points. We want to remember him in the explorations
carried out in memory of the Duke of the Abruzzi and bishop of the
Italian flag in the achievement of large goals. In fact, Monzino
continues where the Duke arrived either he was compelled to stop
60 or 70 years before.
He was born in Milan in march 2sd, 1928 and he dies in September
He carried out 21 shippings in the Alps, in the Andes, on the Hhimmalaya,
between the mountains of Africa, in Greenland and in the Arctic
to achieve the North Pole.
As The Duke of the Abruzzi entrusts the guides of Courmayeur, Monzino
entrusts the guides of Valtournanche, he develops with them the
meticulous organization and the technical ability necessary to reach
the goals prefixed.
He develop the formation and the experience in the mountain climbing
the Cervino, in the first years '50, together with Achille Compagnoni.
Goal reached by the Duke of the Abruzzi in 1906.
Goal reached by Guido Monzino 1st january 1962, Points
Daisy 5.119 meters, with the guides Jean Bich, Antonio Carrel, Leonardo
Carrel, Mario Fantin, Pierino Pession and John Alexander.
The Ruwenzori "
it doesnt presents large climbing difficulties,
but it is specially wearing out because of its hostile climate,
damp and cold".
The shippings of the first two years are organized to train dogs,
men and to slides on the ice-cold sea, and to approach the North
Pole leaving from the costs of Greenland.
1969, 9th February 25th April:
from Jacobshavn to Qanaq-Thule of the North (800 miles)
With the guides Antonio Carrel, Mario Fantin, Giuseppe Miserocchi
, Attilio Ollier, Giovanni Ottin, Pierino Passio, besides Herik
Hoff, president of the Danish Mountain Club, John Andersen of the
Danish Mountain Club, Kai Gnistrup and Arturo Aranda, official of
the chilean army.
With the arctic guides, the group is composed of 32 men, 21 slides
and almost 300 dogs.
1970, 15th April-16th May: from Qanaq
to Cape Columbia (650 miles)
With the guides Antonio Carrel and Giuseppe Herin, two Danish participants
as transmission technicians; arctic guides Talilanguak P. H. Peary,
Peter Peary (grandchilds of R.E. Peary), and four eskimo guides.
1971, 23rd January 20th June: from
Cape Columbia to the North Pole
With the guides Mirko Minuzzo, Rinaldo Carrel and Arturo Aranda,
two Danish participants as transmission technicians, the arctic
guides Talilanguak P.H. Peary, Peter Peary (grandchilds of R.E.
Peary), 12 eskimo guides and 300 dogs .
19th May 1971, the shipping reaches the North Pole
The shipping was organized and lead by Guido Monzino, with eleven
civilians , 57 italian soldiers and about 60 Nepalese.
The peak is reached by two ropes:
- May 5th by Mirko Minuzzo, Rinaldo Carrel, Shambu Tamang
and Lhakpa Tenzing (sherpa boss)
- May 7th by Fabrizio Innamorati, Virginio Epis, Claudio
Benedetti and Sonam Gyaljien (Sherpa vice boss).
A summarize of the 21 shippings carried out by Guido Monzino:
1955 Africa Occidentale: Senegal-Guinea-Costa dAvorio
1956 Grandes Murailles: Alpi Occidentali Italiane e svizzere
1957 - 58 Cerro Paine ed alle Torri del Paine: Ande patagoniche
1959 Kanjut Sar Grande Karakorm
1959 - 60 Kilimanjaro: Africa equatoriale
1960 66° parallelo: Groenlandia occidentale
1960 61 Monte Kenya: Africa equatoriale
1961 74° parallelo: Groenlandia occidentale
1961 62 Ruwenzoni: Africa equatoriale
1962 72° parallelo con slitte: Groenlandia occidentale
1962 77° parallelo: Groenlandia occidentale
1963 1° Spedizione alle Alpi Stauning: Groenlandia
1963 - 64 Tibesti: Africa Sahariana
1968 2° Spedizione nautica Groenlandia orientale
1969 Jacobschavn-Wanaq con slitte: Groenlandia occidentale
1969 71° Spedizione italiana al Polo Nord
1970 Quanaq-Cape Columbia
1970 Spedizione nautica Groenlandia occidentale
1971 Capo Columbia Polo Nord con slitte
1973 Spedizione Italiana allEverest Himalaya, Nepal.
Relics and memories at Villa Balbianello, last Monzino residence
Guido Monzino is today buried in Villa Balbianello on the lake,
last residence of the explorer. The villa was given to the FAI (Fondo
Ambiente Italiano- Italian Environmental Found) and today is one
of its prestigious property.
A Villa Balbianellos plan is dedicated to the relics and
the memories of Guido Monzino shippings. Besides the photographies,
the flags, the decorations obtained, it is possible to admire, in
the middle of the room, one of the eight slides drawn by dogs that
allowed Monzino to reach, in 1971, the North Pole.