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the polar explorers > Guido Monzino 1928 - 1988  

It goes remembered as a grate explorer , a meticulous organizer, attentive to the safety of the group , sensitive to the achievement of the goal and attentive to the human... relations (stroke from the book of Rita Ajmone Cat : Guido Monzino and the his 21 shippings. Ed. Alberti).

Guido Monzino: 5-7th May 1973, Italian shipping to the Everest.
1973-2003 : 30° Anniversary

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Guido Monzino has not open new roads, climbed new peaks or reached unexplored points. We want to remember him in the explorations carried out in memory of the Duke of the Abruzzi and bishop of the Italian flag in the achievement of large goals. In fact, Monzino continues where the Duke arrived either he was compelled to stop 60 or 70 years before.

He was born in Milan in march 2sd, 1928 and he dies in September 11th 1988.

He carried out 21 shippings in the Alps, in the Andes, on the Hhimmalaya, between the mountains of Africa, in Greenland and in the Arctic to achieve the North Pole.

As The Duke of the Abruzzi entrusts the guides of Courmayeur, Monzino entrusts the guides of Valtournanche, he develops with them the meticulous organization and the technical ability necessary to reach the goals prefixed.

He develop the formation and the experience in the mountain climbing the Cervino, in the first years '50, together with Achille Compagnoni.



Mountains of the Moon and the Ruwenzori — 22nd December 1961 –13th January 1962

Goal reached by the Duke of the Abruzzi in 1906.

Goal reached by Guido Monzino 1st january 1962, Points Daisy 5.119 meters, with the guides Jean Bich, Antonio Carrel, Leonardo Carrel, Mario Fantin, Pierino Pession and John Alexander.

The Ruwenzori "…it doesn’t presents large climbing difficulties, but it is specially wearing out because of its hostile climate, damp and cold".

monzino su ghiaccio


1969-1970-1971 Shipping to the North Pole

cartina polo nord

The shippings of the first two years are organized to train dogs, men and to slides on the ice-cold sea, and to approach the North Pole leaving from the costs of Greenland.

1969, 9th February — 25th April: from Jacobshavn to Qanaq-Thule of the North (800 miles)

With the guides Antonio Carrel, Mario Fantin, Giuseppe Miserocchi , Attilio Ollier, Giovanni Ottin, Pierino Passio, besides Herik Hoff, president of the Danish Mountain Club, John Andersen of the Danish Mountain Club, Kai Gnistrup and Arturo Aranda, official of the chilean army.

With the arctic guides, the group is composed of 32 men, 21 slides and almost 300 dogs.

1970, 15th April-16th May: from Qanaq to Cape Columbia (650 miles)

With the guides Antonio Carrel and Giuseppe Herin, two Danish participants as transmission technicians; arctic guides Talilanguak P. H. Peary, Peter Peary (grandchilds of R.E. Peary), and four eskimo guides.

1971, 23rd January — 20th June: from Cape Columbia to the North Pole

With the guides Mirko Minuzzo, Rinaldo Carrel and Arturo Aranda, two Danish participants as transmission technicians, the arctic guides Talilanguak P.H. Peary, Peter Peary (grandchilds of R.E. Peary), 12 eskimo guides and 300 dogs .

19th May 1971, the shipping reaches the North Pole

monzino cape columbia

1973 Italian Shipping to the Everest

monzino vetta everest

The shipping was organized and lead by Guido Monzino, with eleven civilians , 57 italian soldiers and about 60 Nepalese.

The peak is reached by two ropes:

- May 5th by Mirko Minuzzo, Rinaldo Carrel, Shambu Tamang and Lhakpa Tenzing (sherpa boss)

- May 7th by Fabrizio Innamorati, Virginio Epis, Claudio Benedetti and Sonam Gyaljien (Sherpa vice boss).

monzino tragitto everest


A summarize of the 21 shippings carried out by Guido Monzino:

1955 Africa Occidentale: Senegal-Guinea-Costa d’Avorio

1956 Grandes Murailles: Alpi Occidentali Italiane e svizzere

1957 - 58 Cerro Paine ed alle Torri del Paine: Ande patagoniche

1959 Kanjut Sar Grande Karakorm

1959 - 60 Kilimanjaro: Africa equatoriale

1960 66° parallelo: Groenlandia occidentale

1960 61 Monte Kenya: Africa equatoriale

1961 74° parallelo: Groenlandia occidentale

1961 62 Ruwenzoni: Africa equatoriale

1962 72° parallelo con slitte: Groenlandia occidentale

1962 77° parallelo: Groenlandia occidentale

1963 1° Spedizione alle Alpi Stauning: Groenlandia orientale

1963 - 64 Tibesti: Africa Sahariana

1968 2° Spedizione nautica Groenlandia orientale

1969 Jacobschavn-Wanaq con slitte: Groenlandia occidentale

1969 71° Spedizione italiana al Polo Nord

1970 Quanaq-Cape Columbia

1970 Spedizione nautica Groenlandia occidentale

1971 Capo Columbia — Polo Nord con slitte

1973 Spedizione Italiana all’Everest Himalaya, Nepal.

Relics and memories at Villa Balbianello, last Monzino residence

Guido Monzino is today buried in Villa Balbianello on the lake, last residence of the explorer. The villa was given to the FAI (Fondo Ambiente Italiano- Italian Environmental Found) and today is one of its prestigious property.

A Villa Balbianello‘s plan is dedicated to the relics and the memories of Guido Monzino shippings. Besides the photographies, the flags, the decorations obtained, it is possible to admire, in the middle of the room, one of the eight slides drawn by dogs that allowed Monzino to reach, in 1971, the North Pole.

villa balbianello



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